Indian Silk

Post Cocoon

Silk Testing

Standard for Raw silk – Grading and methods of tests

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This folder provides information about the silkworm seed sector, covering seed production, multiplication, distribution, and quality assurance for mulberry, vanya, eri, tasar, and muga silkworms.

/indian-silk/host-plant-cultivation-maintenance-breeding

This folder provides information on cultivation, maintenance, and breeding of host plants used for silkworm rearing, including mulberry, vanya, eri, tasar, and muga host plants.

This topic provides information about Muga Silk Dress Material.

/indian-silk/silk-mark-organisation-of-india-smoi-

This folder provides information about the Silk Mark Organisation of India, the apex body that certifies authenticity of pure silk products, including certification processes and consumer protection measures.

Provides list of awards in the Silk sector

This folder offers information related to India's silk exports and imports, including trade statistics, export destinations, import sources, tariff structures, and regulatory framework governing silk trade.

This folder provides information on publicity, media campaigns, advertisements, press releases, and awareness initiatives undertaken to promote the Indian silk industry.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/weaving-and-fabric

This folder provides information on silk weaving and fabric production, covering handloom and powerloom technologies, traditional weaving techniques, design development, dyeing and printing, finishing processes, and production of diverse silk fabrics. It showcases India's rich weaving heritage along with modern innovations that support the handloom sector and commercial silk fabric manufacturing.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/twist-and-twist-testing-in-silk-yarns-and-fabrics-principles-methods-and-influence-on-fabric-properties

Twist is the helical insertion of turns into a yarn around its longitudinal axis and is an important parameter controlling yarn strength, cohesion, flexibility, surface characteristics and fabric performance. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/air-permeability-and-water-vapour-permeability-of-textile-materials-with-reference-to-silk-fabrics

Air permeability and water vapour permeability are important comfort-related properties of textile materials that determine how effectively air and moisture vapour can pass through a fabric. In silk fabrics, these properties contribute significantly to breathability, moisture management, thermal comfort and wearing comfort. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/drapability-stiffness-and-crease-recovery-of-textile-materials-with-special-reference-to-silk-fabrics

Drapability, stiffness and crease recovery are important fabric performance characteristics that strongly influence the appearance, handle, comfort and practical usability of textile materials. In silk fabrics, these properties are particularly important because they determine the characteristic fluid fall, softness, elegance and wrinkle behaviour of the fabric. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/dimensional-stability-of-textiles-testing-of-shrinkage-and-expansion-with-special-reference-to-silk

Dimensional stability is the ability of a textile material to maintain its original dimensions during use, washing, wet processing, drying, ironing and exposure to moisture or heat. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/guide-to-testing-sorting-and-quality-control-of-mulberry-cocoons

This guide outlines the essential procedures for identifying, sorting, and calculating the defect percentage of mulberry cocoons to ensure high-quality raw silk production. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/gc-ms-and-hplc-for-detection-of-banned-azo-dyes-and-arylamines-in-textiles

GC-MS and HPLC are powerful analytical techniques used to detect and identify hazardous dyes and substances in textiles. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/colour-fastness-of-textiles-principles-types-importance-and-testing

Colour fastness refers to the ability of a dyed, printed or coloured textile material to retain its original colour when exposed to various external influences such as washing, rubbing, perspiration, light, water and heat. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/understanding-abrasion-and-pilling-resistance-in-silk-fabrics-silk-testing-2

This comprehensive guide explores how abrasion and pilling resistance determine the durability, smoothness, and luxurious appearance of silk fabrics.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/ftir-spectroscopy-for-identification-and-characterisation-of-textile-materials

Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy is a rapid and non-destructive or minimally destructive analytical technique used for identifying and characterising textile fibres, polymers, finishes, coatings and other chemical constituents present in textile materials.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/standard-for-raw-silk-grading-and-methods-of-tests

This Indian Standard (Parts 1 to 11) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards towards grading and methods of test for raw silk.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/understanding-raw-silk-grading-importance,-methods,-and-global-standards

Raw silk grading standardizes the quality of silk through rigorous physical and mechanical testing, ensuring fair pricing, processing efficiency, and reliable international trade. This comprehensive guide explores key testing methods and compares major global grading systems, including the Chinese, Japanese, and Indian standards.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/tensile-strength-testing-of-silk-yarns-and-fabrics

Tensile strength is the maximum force a textile material can withstand when subjected to a gradually increasing tensile load before rupture. It is an important indicator of the strength, durability and service performance of silk yarns and fabrics. 

This folder provides information on silk testing, quality evaluation, and certification of silk yarn and fabric. It covers physical, chemical, and mechanical testing parameters, grading systems, standards and specifications, testing laboratories, and quality control measures that ensure authenticity and performance of Indian silk products in domestic and international markets.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/reeling-mulberry

This folder provides information on reeling of mulberry silk, the process of extracting continuous silk filaments from cocoons. It covers traditional and improved reeling technologies including charkha, cottage basin, multi-end, and automatic reeling machines, along with re-reeling, yarn quality parameters, and best practices for producing high-grade mulberry raw silk.

This folder contains information on reeling of vanya (non-mulberry) silks including tasar, eri, and muga. It covers specialised reeling and spinning techniques suited to the unique cocoon characteristics of each vanya variety, along with improved machinery, yarn production processes, and quality standards for tasar, eri, and muga silk yarn.

This folder provides information on post-cocoon activities in the silk value chain, including reeling of mulberry and vanya silk, weaving, fabric production, and silk testing.

/indian-silk/international-and-foreign-affair

This folder provides information about International and Foreign affair

/indian-silk/by-products-and-value-addition

This folder provides information about by-products of sericulture and opportunities for value addition, covering utilisation of sericin, silkworm pupae, waste silk, and mulberry fruits and leaves.

Information about the Indian silk is provided

/indian-silk/capacity-building-and-training-cbt-

This folder contains information on capacity building and training initiatives for stakeholders in the Indian silk sector, including skill development programs, workshops, and training modules.

This topic provides information about Kancheepuram Silk Sarees

/indian-silk/banaras-cutwork-fabric-and-silk-saree

This topic provides information about Banaras Cutwork Fabric and Silk Saree.

/indian-silk/schemes-and-other-technical-information

This folder contains information about central and state government schemes, subsidies, and financial assistance programs for sericulture stakeholders, along with technical guidelines and advisories.

/indian-silk/silkworm-rearing-and-breeding

This folder provides information on rearing and breeding practices for different silkworm varieties, including mulberry, vanya, eri, tasar (oak), and muga silkworms, along with silkworm biotechnology.

This topic provides information about Arni Silk Saree

Oak Tasar Sericulture is a type of wild or forest based sericulture focused on producing a finer variety of Tasar silk using the temperate oak-feeding silkworm, called Antheraea proylei. The silkworm feed on leaves of various oak species (Quercus spp.), such as Q. serrata, Q. incana, etc. These are abundant in temperate/sub-Himalayan regions. Oak tasar culture is mainly practiced inNE & NW states of India. It provides livelihood opportunities, especially for tribal and rural for tribal and rural communities in hilly/forested areas, contributing to sustainable forest-based income generation.

Raw silk &ndash; Grading and methods of tests &ndash; Parts 1 to 11 IS 15090:2002
This Indian Standard IS 15090:2002 (Parts 1 to 11) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards towards grading and methods of test for raw silk. Originally published in 1964, it was revised in 1991 and 2002 to ensure that the standards are able to encompass comparative large proportion of production to have a meaningful effect taking into consideration the strengths and weakness of Indian Silk Industry and present level of quality of raw silk.
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Pre-requirements</h3>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: left;">Completed test results from below parts, as applicable to the lot.</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Grading tables (Classification tables for Categories I, II and III) and the grading proforma/certificate prescribed in the standard.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ul>
<li>Identify the category of the lot based on its size (tex or denier).</li>
<li>Assess and collect the observed values from the applicable tests &ndash; size deviation, maximum deviation, evenness variation I, evenness variation II, cleanness, average neatness, low neatness, evenness variation III, winding, tenacity, elongation and cohesion, as applicable.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Compare each observed value with the classification table for the relevant category.</li>
<li>Assign the grade corresponding to each characteristic.</li>
<li>Apply the 'lowest grade governs' rule for the lot.</li>
<li>If any result falls below the prescribed limit, degrade the lot as specified in the standard.</li>
<li>Record the final grade in the grading certificate/proforma.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Visual and Tactual examination&nbsp;</h4>
1. Sampling
<ul>
<li>All books (or bundles) and skeins in a lot constitute the test sample.</li>
<li>Use the lot as received, subject to the inspection-room conditions specified in the standard.</li>
</ul>
2. Procedure
<ul>
<li>Place the lot in the standard visual inspection room under the specified lighting.</li>
<li>Examine the lot for general finish and the characteristic nature of the raw silk.</li>
<li>Inspect for defects such as distorted books, cut ends, dissimilar skeins, gum knots, adhered substances, mechanical damage, chemical deterioration, shrunk threads, insect-bitten threads, soiled threads and gummed skeins.</li>
<li>Determine whether the lot is Good, Fair, Poor or Inferior for general finish.</li>
<li>Assess colour, lustre and smoothness of hand for characteristic nature.</li>
<li>Record the observations in the Part 2 proforma.</li>
</ul>
3. Assessment
<ul>
<li>General finish is reported as Good, Fair, Poor or Inferior.</li>
<li>Characteristic nature is reported by describing the degree of colour, lustre and hand as observed.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Determination of Conditioned Mass&nbsp;</h4>
1. Sampling
<ul>
<li>Draw six skeins from books at the rate of one skein per book.</li>
<li>Draw the books equally, as far as possible, from different parts of the bale.</li>
<li>Divide the six skeins into two sets of three skeins each.</li>
</ul>
2. Procedure
<ul>
<li>Weigh the two sets of skeins in the same ambient atmosphere as the bale was sampled.</li>
<li>Place one set in the conditioning oven, dry for 15 minutes and weigh to the nearest 0.1 g.</li>
<li>Allow the skeins to dry for another 5 minutes and weigh again.</li>
<li>If the loss between the first and second weighings exceeds 0.25 percent of the first weight, continue drying and weighing at 5 minute intervals until the difference is within 0.25 percent.</li>
<li>Calculate moisture content from the first and final weights.</li>
<li>Repeat the same procedure for the second set of skeins.</li>
<li>Calculate the oven-dry mass and conditioned mass of the bale using the formulas in the standard.</li>
</ul>
3. Assessment
<ul>
<li>Calculate average moisture content from the two sets of skeins.</li>
<li>Calculate conditioned mass as prescribed in the standard and report the result in the Part 3 proforma.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Winding Test&nbsp;</h4>
1. Conditioning : Condition the sample at standard atmosphere for at-least 24 hours and the winding test to be carried out in the standard atmosphere.&nbsp;
2. Sampling
<ul>
<li>Prepare the test skeins in the form prescribed by the standard.</li>
<li>Use 5 skeins for lots consisting of skeins of approximately 140 g each.</li>
<li>Use 10 skeins for lots consisting of skeins of approximately 70 g each.</li>
<li>Place the skeins carefully on the swifts so that each skein remains in good condition.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
3. Procedure
<ul>
<li>Set the winding frame to the correct speed based on the size under test.</li>
<li>Prepare the swifts and bobbins as specified in the standard.</li>
<li>Wind half the sample from the outer surface and half from the inner surface of the skeins, as applicable.</li>
<li>Wind the skeins using the prescribed preliminary winding period, as applicable.</li>
<li>Count breaks during the preliminary winding and during the winding period.</li>
<li>Record the winding time, machine speed and breaks for each skein.</li>
</ul>
4. Assessment : Apply the table in the standard to determine the winding test result.
<h4>Determination of Size (Count) deviation and maximum deviation&nbsp;</h4>
1. Conditioning : Condition the sample at standard atmosphere for at-least 24 hours and the winding test to be carried out in the standard atmosphere.
2. Sampling
<ul>
<li>Use the 10 bobbins prepared for the winding test in Part 4</li>
<li>Prepare minimum of 20 sizing skeins in total from the 10 bobbins.</li>
<li>For size 3.7 tex (33 denier) or below, prepare skeins of 450 m.</li>
<li>For size 3.8 tex (34 denier) or above, prepare skeins of 112.5 m.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
3. Procedure
<ul>
<li>Place the 10 bobbins upright on the wrap reel.</li>
<li>Wind the required number of sizing skeins from each bobbin according to the size class.</li>
<li>Use the appropriate yarn balance to measure each individual skein.</li>
<li>Record each observed tex or denier value.</li>
<li>Calculate the average size and the size deviation as per the Annex A.</li>
<li>Calculate the maximum deviation as the higher of the two extreme deviations from the average size.</li>
</ul>
4. Assessment : Report the size deviation and maximum deviation to the decimal place required by the standard.
<h4>Determination of Conditioned Size (Count)</h4>
1. Sampling ; Use the same sizing skeins prepared in Part 5.&nbsp;
2. Procedure
<ul>
<li>Place all test skeins in the conditioning oven and dry for 10 minutes.</li>
<li>Weigh the skeins to the nearest 0.1 g.</li>
<li>Dry for another 5 minutes and weigh again.</li>
<li>If the loss between the first and second weighing exceeds 0.25 percent of the first weight, continue drying at 5 minute intervals until the difference is within limit.</li>
<li>Calculate the conditioned mass and then calculate average conditioned size in tex or denier as mentioned in the standard.</li>
</ul>
3. Assessment : Calculate and record the average conditioned size in tex or denier
<h4>Determination of evenness variation - Seriplane</h4>
1. Sampling&nbsp;
<ul>
<li>Prepare a total of 20 panels from 10 bobbins.</li>
<li>Take 2 panels from each bobbin.</li>
<li>Wind the raw silk on the inspection board to form 2 panels (front &amp; Back of the board) from each bobbin.</li>
<li>Maintain the thread spacing and tension, prescribed by the size under test standard.</li>
<li>Mount the board in the standard inspection room under prescribed (Vertical) lighting arrangements.</li>
</ul>
2. Procedure
<ul>
<li>To be conducted under standard inspection room and lighting arrangement.</li>
<li>Inspect each panel in the standard room against the standard variation photographs &ndash; V0, V1 &amp; V2 corresponding to Evenness Variation I, Evenness Variation II and Evenness Variation III, respectively.</li>
<li>Compare each stripe found on the panel with the photographs and decide the level of variation.</li>
<li>Record the evenness variation level for each of the 20 panels separately.</li>
<li>Use the record proforma in Annex B.</li>
</ul>
3. Assessment :&nbsp;Record the total number of stripes in each variation class for the 20 panels.
<h4>Determination of Cleanliness - Seriplane</h4>
1. Sampling :&nbsp;Use the same inspection board prepared under part 7 and use the appropriate (horizontal) lighting, as prescribed in the standard.&nbsp;
2. Procedure
<ul>
<li>To be conducted under standard inspection room and lighting arrangement.</li>
<li>Classify each defect by comparison with the standard photographs.</li>
<li>Count the cleanness defects on both sides of the inspection board, with reference to the classification.</li>
<li>Ignore defects on the edges of the panels.</li>
<li>Record the defect category and count for the panel.</li>
</ul>
3. Assessment&nbsp; - Record the total number of defects in each class for the 20 panels and Complete the Annex A.
<h4>Determination of Neatness and Low neatness - Seriplane</h4>
1. Sampling :&nbsp;Use the same inspection board prepared under part 7 and use the appropriate (horizontal) lighting, as prescribed in the standard.&nbsp;
2. Procedure
<ul>
<li>To be conducted under standard inspection room and lighting arrangement.</li>
<li>Compare each panel with the standard photographs for neatness defects.</li>
<li>Estimate the neatness value for each panel in percentage terms.</li>
<li>Use the nearest 5 percent for panels rated 50 percent or above.</li>
<li>Use the nearest 10 percent for panels rated below 50 percent.</li>
<li>Record the neatness value for all 20 panels.</li>
</ul>
3. Assessment
<ul>
<li>Average the neatness values of the 20 panels to obtain the neatness percentage.</li>
<li>Calculate low neatness as the average of the four lowest panel values.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Determination of Tenacity and Elongation by Serigraph Test - SERIGRAPH YARN TESTER</h4>
1. Conditioning:&nbsp;Condition the sample at standard atmosphere for at-least 24 hours and the winding test to be carried out in the standard atmosphere.
2. Sampling
<ul>
<li>Use the 10 bobbins prepared for the winding test in Part 4.</li>
<li>From each bobbin prepare one sizing skein as prescribed in Part 5.</li>
<li>Use the number of strands in the sizing skein according to the count class.</li>
</ul>
3. Procedure
<ul>
<li>Determine the size of each test skein by the method of Part 5.</li>
<li>Mount the skein in the serigraph machine. Maintain a gauge length of 10 cm.</li>
<li>Set the moving clamp traverse rate to 15 cm/min.</li>
<li>Start the machine and record the breaking load and elongation (from graph) when the threads break.</li>
<li>Repeat for the remaining test skeins.</li>
</ul>
4. Assessment
<ul>
<li>Calculate tenacity using breaking load divided by number of strands and size of the skein.</li>
<li>Calculate the average tenacity from all valid specimens.</li>
<li>Calculate elongation as indicated in the graph and record the average value.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Determination of Cohesion - Duplan Cohesion Tester</h4>
1. Conditioning: Condition the sample at standard atmosphere for at-least 24 hours and the winding test to be carried out in the standard atmosphere.
2. Sampling
<ul>
<li>Use 10 test pieces taken from the 10 bobbins prepared for the winding test in Part 4.</li>
<li>Ensure that the thread portion chosen is free from cleanness defects and pronounced evenness defects.</li>
</ul>
3. Procedure
<ul>
<li>Mount one bobbin on the rack of the cohesion tester and thread the silk around the hooks in a zig-zag fashion as shown in the standard. Secure the free end firmly before starting the test.</li>
<li>Start the tester slowly and increase the speed gradually to the maximum permitted stroke rate.</li>
<li>Stop the machine at every 10 strokes and inspect the thread for open places.</li>
<li>Record the number of strokes at each open place.</li>
<li>Continue until open places of 6mm is observed at all yarns/strands.</li>
<li>Repeat the same procedure for all 10 bobbins.</li>
</ul>
4. Assessment
<ul>
<li>Compute cohesion in strokes as the grand total of strokes divided by 100.</li>
<li>Report the average cohesion for the lot as per the Annex A.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<a title="External website that opens in new window" href="https://standards.bis.gov.in/website/standard-details?encryptedId=eyJpdiI6IktsYW5aYWxKenpsaGwrdFNzOEplVXc9PSIsInZhbHVlIjoiTXVPbmdGVkpGUldJVXBWSW52ZzRPUT09IiwibWFjIjoiYmIzNThiODIyY2YxNDAzMjM3YzcyN2ZiZmQxMzEyZGFkNzIyODM1MDcyMTk2YWI4ZWQ3MzIwZDEwYmQzYjNmMiIsInRhZyI6IiJ9" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Full standard : IS 15090 (Part 1 to 11):2002</a>