Indian Silk

Post Cocoon

Silk Testing

Air Permeability and Water Vapour Permeability of Textile Materials with Reference to Silk Fabrics

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This folder provides information about the silkworm seed sector, covering seed production, multiplication, distribution, and quality assurance for mulberry, vanya, eri, tasar, and muga silkworms.

/indian-silk/host-plant-cultivation-maintenance-breeding

This folder provides information on cultivation, maintenance, and breeding of host plants used for silkworm rearing, including mulberry, vanya, eri, tasar, and muga host plants.

This topic provides information about Muga Silk Dress Material.

/indian-silk/silk-mark-organisation-of-india-smoi-

This folder provides information about the Silk Mark Organisation of India, the apex body that certifies authenticity of pure silk products, including certification processes and consumer protection measures.

Provides list of awards in the Silk sector

This folder offers information related to India's silk exports and imports, including trade statistics, export destinations, import sources, tariff structures, and regulatory framework governing silk trade.

This folder provides information on publicity, media campaigns, advertisements, press releases, and awareness initiatives undertaken to promote the Indian silk industry.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/weaving-and-fabric

This folder provides information on silk weaving and fabric production, covering handloom and powerloom technologies, traditional weaving techniques, design development, dyeing and printing, finishing processes, and production of diverse silk fabrics. It showcases India's rich weaving heritage along with modern innovations that support the handloom sector and commercial silk fabric manufacturing.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/twist-and-twist-testing-in-silk-yarns-and-fabrics-principles-methods-and-influence-on-fabric-properties

Twist is the helical insertion of turns into a yarn around its longitudinal axis and is an important parameter controlling yarn strength, cohesion, flexibility, surface characteristics and fabric performance. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/air-permeability-and-water-vapour-permeability-of-textile-materials-with-reference-to-silk-fabrics

Air permeability and water vapour permeability are important comfort-related properties of textile materials that determine how effectively air and moisture vapour can pass through a fabric. In silk fabrics, these properties contribute significantly to breathability, moisture management, thermal comfort and wearing comfort. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/drapability-stiffness-and-crease-recovery-of-textile-materials-with-special-reference-to-silk-fabrics

Drapability, stiffness and crease recovery are important fabric performance characteristics that strongly influence the appearance, handle, comfort and practical usability of textile materials. In silk fabrics, these properties are particularly important because they determine the characteristic fluid fall, softness, elegance and wrinkle behaviour of the fabric. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/dimensional-stability-of-textiles-testing-of-shrinkage-and-expansion-with-special-reference-to-silk

Dimensional stability is the ability of a textile material to maintain its original dimensions during use, washing, wet processing, drying, ironing and exposure to moisture or heat. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/guide-to-testing-sorting-and-quality-control-of-mulberry-cocoons

This guide outlines the essential procedures for identifying, sorting, and calculating the defect percentage of mulberry cocoons to ensure high-quality raw silk production. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/gc-ms-and-hplc-for-detection-of-banned-azo-dyes-and-arylamines-in-textiles

GC-MS and HPLC are powerful analytical techniques used to detect and identify hazardous dyes and substances in textiles. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/colour-fastness-of-textiles-principles-types-importance-and-testing

Colour fastness refers to the ability of a dyed, printed or coloured textile material to retain its original colour when exposed to various external influences such as washing, rubbing, perspiration, light, water and heat. 

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/understanding-abrasion-and-pilling-resistance-in-silk-fabrics-silk-testing-2

This comprehensive guide explores how abrasion and pilling resistance determine the durability, smoothness, and luxurious appearance of silk fabrics.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/ftir-spectroscopy-for-identification-and-characterisation-of-textile-materials

Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy is a rapid and non-destructive or minimally destructive analytical technique used for identifying and characterising textile fibres, polymers, finishes, coatings and other chemical constituents present in textile materials.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/standard-for-raw-silk-grading-and-methods-of-tests

This Indian Standard (Parts 1 to 11) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards towards grading and methods of test for raw silk.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/understanding-raw-silk-grading-importance,-methods,-and-global-standards

Raw silk grading standardizes the quality of silk through rigorous physical and mechanical testing, ensuring fair pricing, processing efficiency, and reliable international trade. This comprehensive guide explores key testing methods and compares major global grading systems, including the Chinese, Japanese, and Indian standards.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/silk-testing/tensile-strength-testing-of-silk-yarns-and-fabrics

Tensile strength is the maximum force a textile material can withstand when subjected to a gradually increasing tensile load before rupture. It is an important indicator of the strength, durability and service performance of silk yarns and fabrics. 

This folder provides information on silk testing, quality evaluation, and certification of silk yarn and fabric. It covers physical, chemical, and mechanical testing parameters, grading systems, standards and specifications, testing laboratories, and quality control measures that ensure authenticity and performance of Indian silk products in domestic and international markets.

/indian-silk/post-cocoon/reeling-mulberry

This folder provides information on reeling of mulberry silk, the process of extracting continuous silk filaments from cocoons. It covers traditional and improved reeling technologies including charkha, cottage basin, multi-end, and automatic reeling machines, along with re-reeling, yarn quality parameters, and best practices for producing high-grade mulberry raw silk.

This folder contains information on reeling of vanya (non-mulberry) silks including tasar, eri, and muga. It covers specialised reeling and spinning techniques suited to the unique cocoon characteristics of each vanya variety, along with improved machinery, yarn production processes, and quality standards for tasar, eri, and muga silk yarn.

This folder provides information on post-cocoon activities in the silk value chain, including reeling of mulberry and vanya silk, weaving, fabric production, and silk testing.

/indian-silk/international-and-foreign-affair

This folder provides information about International and Foreign affair

/indian-silk/by-products-and-value-addition

This folder provides information about by-products of sericulture and opportunities for value addition, covering utilisation of sericin, silkworm pupae, waste silk, and mulberry fruits and leaves.

Information about the Indian silk is provided

/indian-silk/capacity-building-and-training-cbt-

This folder contains information on capacity building and training initiatives for stakeholders in the Indian silk sector, including skill development programs, workshops, and training modules.

This topic provides information about Kancheepuram Silk Sarees

/indian-silk/banaras-cutwork-fabric-and-silk-saree

This topic provides information about Banaras Cutwork Fabric and Silk Saree.

/indian-silk/schemes-and-other-technical-information

This folder contains information about central and state government schemes, subsidies, and financial assistance programs for sericulture stakeholders, along with technical guidelines and advisories.

/indian-silk/silkworm-rearing-and-breeding

This folder provides information on rearing and breeding practices for different silkworm varieties, including mulberry, vanya, eri, tasar (oak), and muga silkworms, along with silkworm biotechnology.

This topic provides information about Arni Silk Saree

Oak Tasar Sericulture is a type of wild or forest based sericulture focused on producing a finer variety of Tasar silk using the temperate oak-feeding silkworm, called Antheraea proylei. The silkworm feed on leaves of various oak species (Quercus spp.), such as Q. serrata, Q. incana, etc. These are abundant in temperate/sub-Himalayan regions. Oak tasar culture is mainly practiced inNE & NW states of India. It provides livelihood opportunities, especially for tribal and rural for tribal and rural communities in hilly/forested areas, contributing to sustainable forest-based income generation.

<h3>Introduction and Air Permeability</h3>
<p>Textile comfort is influenced by the ability of a fabric to allow the movement of air, heat and moisture between the human body and the surrounding environment. Two important properties associated with these mechanisms are air permeability and water vapour permeability. Air permeability is the ability of air to pass through a textile material under a specified pressure difference. It is an important indicator of the breathability and ventilation characteristics of a fabric. Air movement through a fabric can assist in removing heat and moisture from the body and can influence the sensation of freshness and comfort during wear.</p>
<h3>Importance of Air Permeability in Silk</h3>
<p>Silk is widely used in apparel because of its soft handle, low weight, smooth surface and favourable comfort characteristics. The air permeability of silk fabrics depends largely on:</p>
<ul>
<li>Fabric porosity.</li>
<li>Yarn count.</li>
<li>Yarn twist.</li>
<li>Ends and picks per unit length.</li>
<li>Weave structure.</li>
<li>Fabric thickness.</li>
<li>Fabric mass per unit area.</li>
<li>Finishing treatments.</li>
</ul>
<p>A relatively open silk fabric allows greater air movement and can provide a cooler and more breathable sensation. A tightly constructed silk fabric may restrict air movement and provide greater protection against external air movement.</p>
<p>Air permeability therefore influences:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ventilation between skin and clothing.</li>
<li>Heat dissipation.</li>
<li>Comfort during warm conditions.</li>
<li>Perception of breathability.</li>
<li>Drying and moisture removal.</li>
<li>Suitability for different climates and garment applications.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Testing method: </strong>A specified pressure difference is created across a known area of fabric, and the volume or rate of air passing through the specimen is measured. The result is generally expressed as air permeability, such as volume of air passing through a unit area per unit time.</p>
<h3>Water Vapour Permeability and Moisture Comfort</h3>
<p>Water vapour permeability is the ability of a textile material to allow water vapour to pass through it. Water vapour is continuously produced by the human body through perspiration and normal skin activity, and its effective transfer through clothing is important for maintaining thermal comfort. A fabric with good water vapour permeability allows moisture vapour to move from the skin or inner clothing layer towards the external environment. This can help prevent excessive accumulation of moisture inside the garment. Water vapour permeability should be distinguished from liquid water absorption or liquid water transmission. A fabric may absorb liquid moisture while still exhibiting different behaviour towards water vapour.</p>
<p><strong>Importance in Silk Fabrics</strong></p>
<p>Silk has the ability to absorb moisture because silk fibroin is hygroscopic. This characteristic, combined with the structure of the fabric, can contribute to the comfortable feel of silk garments. Water vapour permeability influences:</p>
<ul>
<li>Moisture transfer away from the body.</li>
<li>Skin comfort.</li>
<li>Thermal regulation.</li>
<li>Feeling of dampness.</li>
<li>Comfort during prolonged wear.</li>
<li>Suitability for warm and humid conditions.</li>
<li>Drying behaviour of garments.</li>
</ul>
<p>The water vapour transmission of silk fabrics is influenced by fibre characteristics, fabric thickness, porosity, weave, yarn density, finishing and environmental conditions.</p>
<p><strong>Testing method:</strong> A fabric specimen is placed between environments having different water vapour pressures, and the amount or rate of water vapour passing through the specimen is measured under specified conditions. Results may be reported as water vapour permeability, water vapour transmission rate or related standardized parameters.</p>
<h3>Influence on Comfort and Interrelationship</h3>
<p>Air permeability and water vapour permeability are closely related to clothing comfort, but they represent different transport mechanisms.</p>
<p>Air permeability &rarr; movement of air through the fabric</p>
<p>Water vapour permeability &rarr; movement of moisture vapour through the fabric</p>
<p>During clothing use, the human body continuously generates heat and moisture. An ideal fabric should permit sufficient transfer of heat and moisture while providing appropriate protection from the external environment.&nbsp; <span style="font-family: inherit;">Good air permeability can improve ventilation, while good water vapour permeability can facilitate moisture-vapour transport. Together, they can reduce the accumulation of heat and moisture between the skin and garment. </span>However, higher permeability is not always equivalent to greater comfort. Very high air permeability may reduce protection against cold or wind, while very low permeability may restrict ventilation. Similarly, moisture transport depends on the environmental conditions and the ability of the textile to absorb, transmit and release moisture.</p>
<p>The comfort performance of silk is therefore influenced by the balance among:</p>
<ul>
<li>Air permeability.</li>
<li>Water vapour permeability.</li>
<li>Moisture absorption.</li>
<li>Fabric thickness.</li>
<li>Fabric porosity.</li>
<li>Thermal resistance.</li>
<li>Fabric construction.</li>
<li>Garment fit.</li>
<li>Environmental temperature and humidity.</li>
<li>Human activity level.</li>
</ul>
<p>For example, a lightweight, loosely constructed silk fabric may provide excellent air and water vapour transfer and may be highly suitable for warm climates. A dense silk fabric may provide greater coverage and thermal protection but generally restricts air and vapour movement.</p>
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
<p>Air permeability and water vapour permeability are important functional properties for evaluating the breathability, moisture management and wearing comfort of textile materials. Air permeability determines the ease with which air passes through the fabric, whereas water vapour permeability determines the ability of moisture vapour to migrate through the textile.</p>
<p>In silk fabrics, these properties are influenced by the inherent characteristics of silk as well as yarn construction, fabric density, weave, thickness and finishing. Their combined effect plays an important role in thermal regulation, moisture management and overall clothing comfort. Therefore, evaluation of both properties is valuable when developing and selecting silk fabrics for apparel and other applications where comfort is a major requirement.</p>